We recently visited the Airavatesvarar Temple at Darasuram (near Kumbakonam); it is one of the three Great Living Chola Temples (as anointed by UNESCO in its World Heritage citation), along with the Brihadisvara Temples at Thanjavur and Gangai Konda Cholapuram. The Airavatesvarar temple is not as big as the other two. While it lacks in size and majesty, it more than makes up for this in the quality and richness of its sculptures and mandapas/pillars with ornate carvings.
Raja Raja Chola and Rajendra Chola are perhaps the greatest father/son duos to ever rule anywhere in India. They took the Chola kingdom to the peak of its 400 year rule in the south both in terms of territory expansion and cultural and architectural pursuits. They built the great Shiva temples at Thanjavur and Gangai Konda Cholapuram respectively. Rajendra Chola in a reverential nod to his father, made his vimanam (the tower on top of the sanctum santorum - garba griha) a bit shorter than his father's architectural magnum opus. It was during the reign of Raja Raja II who ruled almost 150 years that the Airavatesvarar temple was built. The vimanam is similar in style to the bigger Chola temples, but even shorter than the one in Gangai Konda Cholapuram.
The Mukhamandapa also known as the Rajagambhiran Mandapam features ornate pillars and ceilings with a truly spectacular horse-ridden chariot motif featured on either side of the steps that go up to the great hall.
The large wheel is reminiscent of the stone chariot in Hampi's Vitthala temple. While the chariot in Hampi is monolithic, what is remarkable about the horse and the wheel here is that they are pieced together like jigsaw puzzles by carving the rectangular stones that make up the mandapa's plinth structure behind the wheel and the horse; i.e. the horse and the wheel are not separate from the super-structure of the temple, which in its ingenuity epitomizes the creativity and skill of the Chola artisans.
The pillars on the mandapam all feature a gaja yazhi at the bottom which is a hybrid of at least 5 animals, the eyes and mane of a lion, an elephant's trunk, goat's horns, a boar's ears and a bull's tail which you can see on the back side of the pillar. The way the tail curves on itself differs in each pillar. The yazhis' trunk is curved to point in the direction of the inner sanctum leading some people to speculate that it serves as a sign-post.
The pillars on the mandapam have carvings of scenes from Shiva Purana and Skandha Purana. As a sample, the following shows the birth of Lord Muruga or Karthikeya as 6 babies before they get fused to a single 6-faced baby god by Parvathi. You can see Lord Shiva holding 3 of the babies, while Parvathi is nursing another child. Shiva and Parvathi are surrounded by the Krittikas who helped raise the baby Karthikeya.
On one of the other balustrades, a running elephant is depicted, with great anatomic accuracy, capturing the legs in running stride and a swinging bell indicating the motion. The jewelry and decorations on the elephant and the afore-mentioned horse are exquisitely carved.
On the outer walls of the inner sanctum, you can see key moments from the lives of the 63 Shaivite Nayanmars carved as miniatures. You would really need a heritage expert or a very good guide to interpret each one of these. One of the panels shows Kannappar, a hunter known for his innocent devotion to Lord Shiva. Like every one of his ardent devotees, Shiva tests Kannappar by showing a bleeding eye on the linga. Kannappa first removes one of his eyes and puts it on the lord; and then the other eye on the linga starts bleeding. Without hesitation, Kannappar offers his second eye, this time making sure to mark the spot of the lord's eye with his foot as he is scooping out his eye (!).
And then there is the bull and the elephant panel, a double entendre in stone, if you will. The head in the middle can be either that of an elephant (body on the right) or of a bull (body on the left).
We also visited Nageswaraswamy Temple at Kumbakonam, which is considered one of the earliest Chola temples. Early Chola temples are much smaller in size and grandeur than later day temples. However they have a sculptural innovation of their own, in the form of miniature relief panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana. These panels narrate the entire story in about 50 panels. I will talk about just one sample here where a bhootha is coming out of a yagna pyre bearing the amirtha (or payasam) which Dasaratha takes and distributes to his three wives which leads to the birth of Lord Rama and his brothers. The panel is half the size of an A4 page and still the artist packs so much detail. Prof. Sivaramakrishnan's excellent talk (part of a series on Chola Art and Architecture organized by Tamil Heritage Trust) describes this panel in great detail wih all the intricacies; it is staggering to see the level of artistic thought, such as framing of the characters, where they are looking at (Dasaratha and his wives are all looking at the urn, while the 2 rishis are looking at each other with satisfaction after the success of the yagna), the curvature of the yagna flame in the middle and how Vashista's body is aligned with this curve. You have to listen to to the talk to know more, I can barely do justice.
Each of these temples have so much to see and a short article like this can only be a teaser at best; the best way to experience them is in person with a well-informed guide.
- R. Balaji